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A Blue to chase away blues

Le Grand Bleu is a pleasure boat owned by a Russian oil billionaire that was named by an American after a French film about free-diving. It’s also a Carlton bistro. There’s a big photo of the ship on...

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Mainly fine Gallic cooking

It’s noisy and pricey, but L’Oustal is a welcome advance in Melbourne French bistros. At last we’re being offered dishes more complex and interesting than steaks with béarnaise sauce, and country...

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Well-cooked classics and country warmth

It’s a rare event, but some bistros serve their modest fare in exceptionally warm and stylish surroundings. Such a phenomenon is even more unusual in the bush. The bush I’m talking about in this case,...

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Toorak Road’s gastro-arrival

Paris Butchers’ Shops is probably the best translation of this wonderful new restaurant’s name. In Australia, we sustain a romantic notion that eating in Italy and France is wildly exciting. Well, you...

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Sparkling Cambodian

The food’s the thing in Melbourne’s simplest Asian restaurants. Dishes are authentic, tasty and very cheap. Décor is of no concern. There’s a second tier of Asian places, though, that want to broaden...

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